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    They're first ladies of fashion too But there is so much more to a first lady's fashion identity than that one Cinderella moment.Windows 7 Key Mary Todd Lincoln was a shopaholic who took a private rail car to New York for retail therapy. Grace Coolidge wore drop-waist flapper dresses that were short -- but not too short -- making herself a model for women looking to Charleston through the Roaring '20s without being too provocative. Eleanor Roosevelt was the first first lady to be snapped in a bathing suit; Lady Bird Johnson sponsored the first White House fashion show to draw attention to the environment and promote travel in America. All of which is to acknowledge that first lady fashion-watching is a national pastime. What they've worn on vacation, foreign visits and at bedtime has been chronicled in newspapers and magazines and, later, on TV. They've started hairstyle trends from chignons to bouffants to bangs. They've even had colors named after them: Eleanor blue, Mamie pink and Nancy red. At times, fashion has been used for political purposes. "When the cotton industry was spiraling, Lou Hoover [first lady from 1929 to 1933] was asked to pose for photographs wearing cotton dresses, " says first lady historian Carl Sferrazza Anthony. (Hoover tried to popularize cotton for evening clothes, but it didn't take off. ) And although there's no written rule that first ladies must wear American-made clothing, the tradition started with Martha Washington (1789-97), who was encouraged to wear "homespun" clothing instead of British fashions in the aftermath of the Revolutionary War. Even before the role became a public one in the late 19th century, first ladies wielded enormous symbolic power. And today, they still reflect and refract the image the American public has of itself. Many have used style to set a tone for their husband's presidency, starting with that first first lady. Washington "knew instinctively how clothing conveyed a message. And the image she projected was carefully calculated to be simultaneously republican and elegant. She dressed plainly but in the finest fabrics, " according to Helen Bryan's 2002 book, "Martha Washington: First Lady of Liberty. " Dolley Madison elevated the office by dressing smartly in Empire-waist dresses with an ample dose of cleavage, and turbans adorned with bird of paradise feathers, first as the official White House hostess for Thomas Jefferson and later as James Madison's first lady (1809-17). She was Queen Dolley because there was a craving for the imprint of legitimacy that monarchy gave. And one of the jobs of first lady is to send out psychological and emotional messages to the country. " Lincoln (1861-65) wanted the same magic. But she went on shopping sprees and accepted unlimited credit at department stores while men were dying on the battlefield during the Civil War. This was reported in the press at the time and caused her husband great embarrassment. In 1864, when the president was up for reelection, Mary Todd Lincoln told a friend she had spent $27, 000 on clothing, according to the 1998 book "America's First Ladies: Changing Expectations, " by Barbara Silberdick Feinberg. Abraham Lincoln's annual salary was $25, 000. After he died, the first lady was in so much debt that she was forced to sell clothes on consignment and in 1867 to host "Mrs. Lincoln's Second-Hand Clothing Sale. " It was a flop. Eleanor Roosevelt (1933-45) had a cozy arrangement of her own with New York retailer Arnold Constable -- during the Great Depression no less. After marrying in the White House in 1886, the 21-year-old Frances Cleveland (1886-89, 1893-97) became an instant celebrity. The use of color in advertising was new, and companies used her name and youthful face without permission to hawk goods including bitters and underwear. Her hairstyle -- a low chignon -- was much imitated. And when a gossip report falsely claimed she had abandoned the bustle, she went ahead and did it, and so did the rest of America. "Every now and then a first lady seems like a breath of fresh air. And she was one of those people, " explains Lisa Kathleen Graddy, curator of the "First Ladies: Political Role and Public Image" exhibit at the Smithsonian. It wasn't the first time the commercial industry had capitalized on the first lady role, and it wouldn't be the last. Barbara Bush (1989-93) had a line of Kenneth Jay Lane jewelry named after her, playing off her trademark triple strand of faux pearls, which is similar to Obama's. ("Pearls are virtuous jewelry, quintessentially American, " Allgor notes. "Diamonds are too aristocratic. ") Coolidge (1923 to 1929), following the unpopular Florence Harding, was one of a handful of first ladies to attain fashion icon status. In tailored suits, drop-waist tunics and skirts, Coolidge "upheld the image of the wholesome flapper, " Beasley says. At night, she dressed like a movie star in gold lam and lace and, thanks to movie reels, she cut a familiar form for the American public. A baseball enthusiast, she was also an early adopter of modern sportswear who liked to hike, play tennis and ride. Jacqueline Kennedy (1961-63) proved that Europe did not have a monopoly on good taste. She may have hailed from the upper crust, but she had popular appeal. Her uncluttered elegance, influenced by Hubert de Givenchy's French chic and executed by American designer Oleg Cassini during the White House years, was a boon to the fashion industry, as her trademark evening sheaths, pillbox hats and Capri pants were copied and sold. In March 1961, Women's Wear Daily wrote that the Jackie look had become "part of the retail ad language. " Photographers followed her every move, even on the beach in Ravello, Italy. She was young, vigorous and attractive. Hillary Rodham Clinton's (1993-2001) fashion identity was sometimes confused, as she struggled between dressing as a mother figure and a working woman. There were a lot of schoolgirl headbands, straw hats and unfortunate prints before she eventually settled on her signature pantsuits. And her changing hairstyles were critiqued almost as often as her policies. Clinton poked fun at herself last year when she named her worst fashion moments for Us Weekly magazine. The Bush first ladies' style legacies are minimal. In fact, it's difficult to recall anything specific from either of their wardrobes. So it's no wonder there's excitement over what Michelle Obama will be wearing as first lady. "She has a lot of leeway because she is like us, " Allgor says. Instead of buying copies of what she wears, we can buy the real thing from J. Crew and Banana Republic. "And when they dress her for fabulous events, there's no uneasiness, because we know that she wouldn't be wearing those things in real life, " Allgor says. "It's the closest thing to what would happen if you or me became first lady. It's like 'Princess Diaries. ' "

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They are socially-networked and are not dependent upon media publicity so important for political gatherings, though the gruesome crime itself spontaneously gave them media coverage. They are not going to meekly accept political rhetoric repeated periodically by leaders. Instead, they want action; and they are not going to wait forever like the ruling class revelling in status quo. They want action now. Instead of assessing and understanding the emerging scene, the Congress and government leadership appears to be moving from self-made crisis to crisis like headless chicken. Why did not Soniaji or MMS or anyone who takes decisions (is there anyone? )for or in the government work out a genuine plan of action that would defuse the public anger rather than saving their own skin for such contingencies? Is it callousness? Or is it sheer inability to analyse and take decisions? Or is it sab chalta hai attitude? Or is it because they have lost touch with the public? I suppose it is a combination of all these things that enabled them to start believing their own rhetoric spelled out for public consumption. In the case in point, even if law and order considerations were the reason for keeping the public off the loop about the cremation, why did not they take the family into confidence? Even while avoiding public participation in the funeral the whole thing could have been done with more dignity than the type of mess it has left behind. The poor girl did not deserve it. How sincere was the talk of Soniaji or MMS after the death of the girl? It was patently lacking sensitivity and probably read out from the screen. Why can't they speak what is in their mind? I thought Sonia's talk on the same subject in parliament had more vigour and sincerity than one she made; it was too little too late. MMS made a better speech on FDI than on this critical moment because probably he believed his own words on FDI, more sincerely. A few more questions come to mind regarding the funeral of the victim in secrecy. It could be an administrative decision for security reasons; but can't it be done with more finesse? What do Soniaji and MMS achieve by conveying condolences in all the secrecy when the body arrived? Does it convince anyone as a sincere one? Did the family want all this shroud of secrecy? Will someone in power clarify? Lastly, why does not the government nominate someone who can communicate with the public with skill, instead of delivering appallingly worded, insensitive, re-circulated pedestrian spiel by woooden-faced ministers with the body language and delivery of a marionette. We have seen even Musharraf or Zardari doing a better job. I have not understood minister after minister talking about the "brave girl" who is a victim of gross negligence of their own responsibility to govern and be accountable to the people. And they say not a word that in future they would be more responsible. The lack of such statements to make an impact the situation is visible: even as they keep talking their words of wisdom, victims are piling up everyday and public is restive. Even my blood of vintage-1936 boils at the way the shoddiness of governance. Why blame the young people? They are facing the brunt of it everyday. But the sad thing is, I see no one in the political horizon who can do this. And that goes for the opposition parties too. Initially, even when Sonia and MMS made their belated statements, they could have started their talk with the simple words: I AM SORRY. I APOLOGISE FOR THE LAPSES. This is nothing extraordinary. Other leaders have done it. Do they have the moral courage which Japanese and Korean leaders in govt have shown when their government or party had failed the public? As New Delhi is in shambles now, after the outpouring of public protests, the Congress party and the government would do well to do what every soldier does after every operation -small or big - carry out an after action analysis. Find out what was done wrongly and rightly, set right the wrong and reinforce the right things (were there any? ). I am sure the bureaucracy, largely patterned by the British, also must be having some form of post mortem (the term itself is self defeating)after such fiascos. Or are they congratulating each other now for escaping by the skin of the teeth. In another 30 days we will be mourning Gandhiji. I am sure his faith in the people has been redeemed not by our Netas but by the youth. They are showing the way to guys like me who had seen Gandhi when he was alive but lost him as we lived. (Col. R Hariharan, a retired Military Intelligence specialist on South Asia is a citizen journalist.

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